Week 32: Jasper to British Columbia National Parks

After enjoying two weeks in Alberta’s Rockies, I went west into British Columbia to explore several of their National Parks.

Glacier National Park, BC
Friday, August 1st was Canada’s Heritage Day (similar to the US Labor Day holiday), so after leaving Moraine Lake, I headed west on the Trans-Canada into British Columbia.  The border of Alberta and British Columbia is home to six national parks (Banff and Jasper in Alberta; Yoho, Glacier, Mount Revelstoke and Kootenay in BC).  The drive was one breathtaking mountain, stream and glacier after another.  

The drive into Glacier

Entering Glacier National Park quickly became some of the most rugged terrain I had experienced.  The park is home to over 400 glaciers and icefields within the Selkirks and Purcells.  I arrived at Illecillewaet (pronounced ill-a-silhouette) campground around 11 a.m. and learned that it’s first come first serve and already, people were speeding around the loops looking for the perfect spot.  In the 3rd and final loop, I found a shady spot next to a river, pulled in forward, was level, and considered myself lucky.  The park attendant warned me that a mama grizzly and two cubs were around so ‘ Be Bear Aware’.  As the afternoon progressed and holiday weekend commenced, the cars looped around faster and the spots diminished quickly.  T and I walked around to discover that Illecillewaet Campground is a pure gem tucked in a valley of giant mountains and bright glaciers.  The only amenities were flush toilets adding to the rawness that I found delightful.  Later that afternoon, I met Judy and Craig from Santa Barbara who I instantly become very fond of.  We spent several hours sharing our stories and travel recommendations.

A great campground!

Our campsite (river is on the other side of the road)

Saturday morning (8/2.. Happy Birthday Emma Jade!), Trooper and I left the RV at 8 a.m. to get an early start on the trail.  I was a bit nervous about hiking alone in grizzly country, especially since the area felt so remote.  I was relieved to see a large group of hikers heading onto Great Glacier and was grateful that they welcomed Trooper and I to bring up the rear.  Since T was being treated for Lyme, I wasn’t sure how he would do but was pleased after he made it one hour on the steady uphill climb.  After that, he stopped several times looking back at me, so I knew he had enough.  It was cloudy and a bit humid but the views of the valley and glaciers were rewarding.

Safety in numbers

View of the valley

Glaciers off in the distance

Meeting of the Waters

Looking downstream

Bunchberry blooms

T letting me know it's time to go

The next day, I took Trooper for another two-hour hike on Alsukan Valley trail.  This hike was even more remote with single track through thick bushes making me extra cautious.  Loudly talking to myself and clapping sporadically made me feel a bit foolish but I fully support being “bear aware”.  Traveling in grizzly country has created an ongoing mind battle; part of me thinks it’s silly to not hike alone due to a fear of something very unlikely but the other part knows solo-hiking in grizzly land is not a smart idea.  When we got back to the RV around 10 a.m., Judy and Craig were gearing up and invited me to join them.  I was thrilled to have their company and get back on the trail.  We hiked toward Sir Donald on the other side of the valley as my two previous hikes.  The beginning of the trail was a steady incline through thick tall pines until we came to a sign warning us that we were entering an avalanche area home to grizzlies.  We walked out onto a rock field with 360 degree views.  It was hot, sunny and spectacular!  And the company of these two Californians was incredibly enjoyable making this one of my favorite days in the Canadian Rockies.

Views all around

Welcome to grizzly country

The rock pile looking west

Selfie

Judy and Craig on the rock pile

A GREAT couple!

Monday morning (8/4), I met a couple who encountered the grizzly mama and two cubs the previous day on a “family-friendly” hike behind the Rogers Pass Visitors Center.  They shot a bear banger (a gun that shoots blanks) sending her off the trail but not before she sent ungodly fear through all nearby hikers.  The ranger later said that this was the second time in two weeks humans shot at her and when they found her later that night, she was highly agitated.  Canadian Parks do a fantastic job putting animals first and quickly shut down the trails to give her space and hopefully peace and quiet.


Revelstoke, BC
After saying goodbye to Judy and Craig later that morning, I continued west on the Trans-Canada to Revelstoke.  Several people recommended this place as a raw, down-to-earth, hardcore ski town.  We arrived around 10 a.m. and despite the warmth and humidity, Trooper and I walked around for a couple of hours.  On our way back to the RV, I saw a long line at Modern Bakery and decided it’s my travel obligation to sample their offerings.  I ordered a sandwich, mocha, and peanut butter chocolate bar for breakfast dessert (something I have become quite fond of).  All delicious!  

When in doubt, look for the crowds!

Delicious way to start the day

Revelstoke is definitely my kind of town.  It is the least pretentious ski town I have ever visited and even with all the hiking and biking I’ve done, I felt out of shape among the young, trim and fit.  Since Mount Revelstoke National Park doesn’t have camping, I stayed at Lamplight RV Park in town; it’s a side-by-side no privacy RV park, but gave me an opportunity to do laundry and catch up on WiFi.

The RV life

We pulled out before 9:00 a.m. the next morning and drove to Mount Revelstoke National Park.  Shortly after getting on the ‘Meadows in the Sky Parkway’, I saw a bear cub in the road.  He was heading right, then left, then jumped in the air and ran back right into the woods.  I pulled up slowly and saw what I hoped was its mama.  It was a splendid start to the day!  I parked in the first lot and took T on the summit trail.  From the top, there are panoramic views of the Selkirks and Monashees.  The park is known for its wildflowers and diversity; it is the only mountain in the park system accessible by vehicle letting visitors drive through rainforest, snow forest and sub-alpine meadows.  It also has the greatest diversity of trees including old-growth cedars nearly 500 years old.  Toward the end of our time at the top, I saw a girl I had seen at Illecillewaet a couple of days earlier so I stopped to say hello.  Joanne and I chatted for a while and exchanged information since I would be in her hometown of Calgary in a few days.  She is a beautiful woman whose love for climbing, hiking and backcountry skiing is contagious.  I am so blessed to be meeting so many amazing new friends!

A great welcome to the park 

T checking out the mama 

Western Anemone

Sunny and spectacular view

View of Revelstoke mountain in the distance

Closeup 

Purple Aster

The summit! 

Wildflowers galore

View of downtown Revelstoke

Yoho National Park, BC
I would have liked to spend more time in Reve (as the locals call it), but I needed to make my way east towards Calgary in anticipation of Alexa’s visit.  En route, I stopped in Yoho National Park.  Yoho may not be well known, but it should be with its spectacular beauty.  It is home to 28 peaks towering over 3,000 meters, the crystal clear Kicking Horse River (which I “bathed” in and it was COLD), and several waterfalls.  It was named after a Cree expression meaning “awe and wonder”.  When I pulled in at 3:30, the Kicking Horse campground was full but there were plenty of spots next door at Monarch and I found a spot next to a unique looking vehicle.  I later met Bruce who purchased a Mercedes shell and custom built his RV.  It is well-designed and well-built with everything you can imagine including space for kite boards, a mountain bike, a kayak and his motorcycle.  He and I chatted for a while and then he was kind enough to invite me over for dinner.  We spent the evening sharing stories and inspiration about the full-time RV life.

Two good looking RVs

Thanks for the delicious dinner Bruce!

T trying to stay cool

Sunset over Yoho

On Wednesday (8/6), Bruce and I went to Takakkaw Falls to photograph one of Canada’s highest waterfalls.  To make the day even better, I ran into Judy and Craig in the parking lot.  It was such a great surprise I hugged them both twice!  

Falls mist

The Takakkaw Falls

Another Meeting of the Waters 

Where the rivers merge 

Bruce working hard

Me not working so hard

Since Bruce and I were heading east, we decided to caravan and stop in Banff for a few days.  I welcomed the idea of putting on “real” clothes and having dinner in a “real” restaurant.  It was a short drive back to Tunnel Mountain campground and upon arriving, I received a warm reception and was told that Trooper’s photo is their new screen saver.  Bruce and I went to Bamboo Garden that night and indulged in Thai classics; afterwards, we went to the Fudgery on Banff Ave where he introduced me to glaciers (a must if you’re in town; my favorite was the chocolate peanut butter cup).

Caravan east to Banff

Co-pilot sleeping on the job!

Refreshing Thai iced tea

Thursday morning, Bruce made Trooper and me pancakes before we headed out on our mountain bikes.  We rode into town and along the Bow River and Spray River trails.  After riding for several hours, we stopped at my favorite food spot (Wild Flour) for lunch.  That evening, we went to El Toro for tapas and I even splurged on a Sangria.  The food was delicious and hit the spot after an active day.  It was a beautiful evening so we enjoyed a walk and colorful sunset.

A good day to go for a bike ride

Spray River Trail 

Bruce and I on the bikes 

Plantains, guacamole and Sangria = happiness

Sunset from the campground 

Bruce behind the camera

Nice closeup

Final Thoughts
The week was a bit of a whirlwind traveling from one magical national park to another.  I’m thrilled that I was able to visit so many, experience some of nature’s best, and make new friends.  It was a sensational week and I thank Judy, Craig, Joanne and Bruce for hanging out and becoming a part of my life!