Thursday, May 29, 2014

Week 21: Niagara Falls, ON to Thousands Islands, ON

After leaving the beauty of Niagara Falls, I made my way to Toronto for a brief but wonderful visit with friends from Starbucks before heading to the St. Lawrence River and Thousand Island region.



Toronto & Good Old Friends!
On Tuesday, 5/20, I left Niagara Falls and drove around the west edge of Lake Ontario on the QEW and Highway 401 to Indian Line Campground, which was advertised as the only campground in the Toronto city limits.  It wasn’t the best campground, but was the closest to where Andy, Christina and Paige were staying.  I didn’t realize how big Toronto was, even though I know it is the most populous city in Canada (and surprisingly the fourth largest city in North America after Mexico City, New York and LA).  Shortly after setting up camp, they arrived at my site.  It seemed much longer than five months that I was working with them in the Seattle Starbucks headquarters, but seeing their faces erased all time and distance.  We only had a few hours together but it was well worth changing my plans to see them.  Thank you Andy, Christina and Paige for fitting me into your business plans; it was awesome seeing you… I miss you all!  And thank you Paige for traveling so far to deliver my mail and debit card! :)

Happy faces reunited!
The team formally known as "Strategic Initiatives"

Sandbacks Provincial Park
Since the campground wasn't great and the best way into downtown Toronto was a one-hour bus ride, I decided to pack up and leave the city behind.  It took a while driving east on highway 401 to feel like the city was behind me… a long while.  In my last blog post, I wrote that my experience driving in Ontario felt like a competitive sport.  It still felt like that; however, one brilliant factor that I noticed was that people pass in the left lane then move over to the right.  I have yet to see a slow driver in the left lane, so kudos to the Canadian drivers!  Highway 401 has frequent “On Routes” which are comparable to US Travel Plazas only cleaner with better food options and WiFi, so I pulled into the Port Hope On Route for a few hours to get a Starbucks mocha and plan my next stop.  Looking at the map, I found Sandbanks Provincial Park located just west of the Thousand Islands and decided to check it out.  The drive toward the peninsula on highway 33 reminded me of northern Florida with flat countryside and surrounding water, only this area included many quaint wineries and vineyards overlooking Lake Ontario.

I don’t know what (or if) I was thinking with a name like “Sandbanks” but I was wonderfully surprised by this provincial park.  It is located on Lake Ontario on Quinte Isle and boasts the world’s largest fresh water sand bar and dune system.  This was one of those moments on this journey when winging it results in awesomeness.  Similar to most of my journey, I'm ahead of the busy season resulting in peaceful accommodations (expect for the wildlife).

Sandbanks campsite with only one other camper in the loop
This Robin certainly knows where to find the worms
T chased this little guy up the tree
These Canadian Black Squirrels look like a cat and mink got together
Trooper is a magnet for everything... in this case, leaves

Shortly after pulling into a wooded and quiet camp loop, I met Tom and Kim who were kind enough to share the history of the area (as well as give me helpful photography hints). The park is surrounded by Lake Ontario, West Lake and East Lake.  Both lakes were once bays of Lake Ontario but over thousands of years, sandbars formed cutting off the water and forming lakes (in later research, I learned the dunes are geomorphological features called “baymouth barriers”).  That afternoon, Trooper and I headed out to explore the west side of the park on Woodlands and Dune Trails.  After walking through brilliant green grassy meadows, we walked right into the West Lake sand dune.  It was unexpected and inviting.  The breeze coming off the lake was warm and the golden sand seemed to glow in the setting sun.  

Woodlands Trail heading toward West Lake
American Goldfinch just hanging out 
Found this note to parents humorous 
First sighting of the dunes and what a beautiful discovery!
T wishing the sand was snow
Overlooking West Lake
I like well-marked trail systems
T cooling off in the sunset
And still cooling off...
And still cooling off...

Thursday, 5/22, we spent the day exploring the east side of the campground and East Lake’s sand bar.  This side of the park felt more like an established beach destination with many access areas, kayak rental shops and one designated pet area.  The morning was humid with an eerie fog rolling off Lake Ontario.  Sandbanks was a spontaneous decision as I was heading east and turned out to be one of my favorite stops.  The sand dunes, abundance of water, and unique mix of flora made this one of the best parks I have visited.  

T wondering what's out there
Then deciding to sit it out
Clearly he needs a break (or is yelling at me!)
The banks of Lake Ontario

Gananoque & 1000 Islands
On Friday, 5/23, I continued traveling east on highway 401 into the small town of Gananoque, “Canada’s Gateway to the Thousand Islands”.   I stopped at the Visitors Center and immediately felt at home.  The staff was incredibly welcoming and curious about my story.  Tamara gave me her top few things to do in the area, which quickly became my agenda for the next few days.  First on the list was stopping at “The Socialist Pig” coffeehouse for homemade lemon loaf and a mocha (made with chocolate milk rather than syrup because they can’t find a healthy syrup).  I walked around town for a few hours enjoying the quaint waterfront and very friendly locals.

A GREAT town at the beginning of the 1000 Islands Region
Enjoying the town park
Oh Canada!
Hanging out along the St. Lawrence River
The Socialist Pig coffeehouse... delicious, quaint and friendly!
T making friends with the pig
I picked up the 1000 Island Parkway outside Gananoque and found an RV Park with petting zoo to call home for the night.  I think Trooper was happy with the campsite located where he could keep an eye on the animals.  The next day, we continued traveling east on the parkway stopping a few times to get a look at the 1000 Islands.  I learned that there are actually 1,864 islands spanning 50 miles from the northeast corner of Lake Ontario north along the St. Lawrence River.  To count as one of the “1000 islands”, they must (1) be above water year round, (2) be greater than one square foot, and (3) support at least one living tree.  Many of the islands are privately owned and it was interesting seeing the houses built on some of the smaller islands. 

Home for the night at 1000 Islands Camping Resort (petting zoo to the right)
T making a new friend
But not sure about the goat (it was mutual)
A few privately owned islands
Not a bad housing situation

I stopped at the 1000 Islands National Park located outside Mallorytown and based on their recommendation, drove a bit further east to hike Jones Creek.  It was hot and muggy and my first experience being swarmed by incessant mosquitoes.  I knew I was in trouble when I passed a couple of hikers wearing net hats.  Several times on the hike, I had to wipe the mosquitos off Trooper’s eyes.  Another hiker told me it gets better in August!  We picked up the pace, didn’t stop often and did our best to get around the loop as fast as possible.  

Jones Creek (the only photo due to mosquitos) 
A lot of cuteness in this family!
T and I cooling off back on the banks of Lake Ontario

Lake Charleston Provincial Park
After our hike and based on another recommendation from Tamara, we headed north away from the St. Lawrence River to visit Lake Charleston Provincial Park.  En route, I stopped at Wendy’s Farm Market which Tamara told me was a must.  It was hard to find since it’s off a dirt road deep in the countryside, but what a great stop!  The owners were immediately drawn to Trooper since they have a pack of Huskys and Malamutes that they run in the winter.  We chatted for a while while I enjoyed a yummy BLT wrap made with all fresh ingredients from their market.  I could have stayed at this place for hours; they have a wonderful business and were incredibly friendly.  I walked away with elk sausage, fresh bacon, 50/50 wild boar/venison hamburger, tomatoes and fresh farm eggs.  Feeling well stocked, I made my way to Lake Charleston.  We spent the weekend (5/24 - 5/25) at the lake hiking, biking, doing laundry, and prepping for our return to the USA.  The Provincial Parks in Canada are wonderful.  They are beautifully maintained with clean restrooms/showers, laundry facilities, and welcoming staff.  On a side note, electricity is referred to as “hydro”.

Delicious and brilliant with the addition of cucumber!
Wendy's Farm Market... a must do in the 1000 Islands Region
A great setup
Lake Charleston campsite... again, the only camper in the loop
Shortly after setting up, we were welcomed with a hail storm
Lake Charleston
Pitstop on a long hike
T doing his thing
Not a bad place to pitch a tent for the night

Back to the USA!
On Monday, Memorial Day 5/26, I headed south toward the 1000 Islands bridge to cross back into the states.  The crossing was easier than expected, although I ended up in the wrong lane; my options were “Auto” or “Truck”, so I assumed I was considered a truck.  The officer (whose window was 3 feet above my head clearly meaning I was in the wrong lane) asked me if I was trying to beat the traffic in the auto lane and I explained I didn’t know if I was an auto or truck.  He clarified that I was an auto then took my tomatoes (so I didn’t mention all the meat I purchased) and made me drive through the radar machine.  The good thing was that I did beat a lot of the auto traffic!  After crossing, I stopped at the 1000 Island Tower.  I do my best to stay away from tourist attractions but after finding out it was $12 to get to the top of the 400 foot tower, I couldn’t resist.  It was well worth the money to see this perspective of the 1000 Islands with breathtaking views in all directions.  

Waiting to go through the US Crossing radar machine (not sure what they're looking for but happy I was cleared)
The 1000 Island Tower on the US side 
1000 Islands looking east toward Montreal
Looking north at Canada and the border crossing bridge
Looking west toward Lake Ontario... a great view!

Final Thoughts
Unplug.  Since I was only going to be in Canada for one week, I didn’t purchase a voice or data plan (which I will do for my upcoming summer journey through Canada).  Even though it was a bit unsettling to have limited access, there was silence and simplicity that came with it.  Not having instant communication or access to information took me back to a time before cell phones and internet (I know I sound like my grandparents, but they were right!).  I’m all for technology, but I’m also for unplugging from it and finding other sources of entertainment… like finishing that novel you’ve been reading for far too long or just simply sitting outside and watching nature unfold.  Unplug and you may be surprised at the creativity and motivation that befalls upon you. 

Thanks for reading and until next time…