Thursday, June 5, 2014

Week 22: 1000 Islands to Green Mountains, Vermont

After a week in the Lake Ontario region where the terrain is flat and woods are filled mostly with deciduous trees, I was excited to head to upstate New York and Northern Vermont to immerse myself in the dense evergreen mountains. 



Lake Placid, NY
I left the Thousand Islands area on Tuesday, 5/27 and drove northeast on highways 3 and 30 into upstate New York.  Most of the drive was relatively flat farmland, but soon after hitting the border of Adirondack Park, the terrain changed to mountains and evergreens.  The Adirondacks were not as remote or big as I remembered, but perhaps living out west has changed my perspective on mountains.  It is the largest park and National Historic Landmark in the contiguous United States with 60% of it being privately owned.

Welcomed sight of evergreens and mountains

I was heading into Lake Placid to chat with the Visitors Center and make plans.  Somewhere close to downtown, I made a wrong turn and ended up at the Olympic Ski Jump park, which was a great surprise!  Trooper and I got out to get as close as we could and walk the neighboring John Brown Farm trails.  After stretching our legs for a bit, we made our way to the Visitor Center located at Lake Placid's Olympic Center.  Since it was raining, I put off walking around town for another day but just being in the quaint ski town was splendid.  There is an undeniable lure to ski towns that makes me feel at home.

Nice surprise after making a wrong turn
Cannot imagine doing this

We ended up at North Pole Camping Resort in Wilmington, about 10 miles northeast of Lake Placid.  Wilmington is the official home of Whiteface Mountain where the Olympic Ski events were held.  The resort was surprising with wooded sites and access to miles of hiking trails, including connectors to the Whiteface Trail system.  The next day we headed out on the trail hoping to get to the top of Whiteface Mountain.  The day was dreary making the hike through dense forests dark yet tranquil.  After ~2.5 miles and a steep ascent, we hit heavy fog making it time to turn around.  Even though we didn’t summit, I felt it was a good hike deserving a nice cold beverage and fortunately, the campground office sold beer!

Hoping the rain holds out
A little ominous
Not a bad snack after a good hike
Tired dog = Good dog!

I woke up Thursday, 5/29 to blue skies and decided to spend the day in Lake Placid.  T and I walked down main street to the north end where the real Lake Placid is located (the actual town is on Mirror Lake).  Around noon, I put T in the RV and visited several stores that I picked out earlier.  I restocked my Starbucks Via (which I declare to be one of the best inventions of all time!), a new water bottle, new Oofos flip-flops (which are crazy comfortable), and a new book (the Alchemist).  I could have spent much longer in this awesome town, but it was time to continue my journey and cross into Vermont.

The Olympic Ski Mountain
THE Lake Placid
Mirror Lake with Lake Placid (the town) on right
Happy to revisit one of my favorite towns
Beautiful day to walk main street
And see remnants of the Olympics 

Lake Champlain, VT
I drove 87 North on the west side of Lake Champlain almost to the Canadian border then crossed over the bridge into Vermont.  I drove south on highway 2  through the Lake Champlain Islands with spectacular views of the water and mountains off in the distance.  On one of the islands, I found Grand Isle State Park where we were spoiled with more views and a lovely evening.

Lake Champlain bridge in the distance connecting New York to Vermont
Perfect timing with my drive-by photo crossing an island (yes, while I was driving)
T enjoying the views (yes, still taking photos and driving)
Looking east from the campsite and spotted a balloon
Caught two islands with the sun shining
Grand Isle State Park campsite
Exploring the nature trail at Grand Isle State Park
Checking out one of the campground "leantos" 
A visit from one of the locals

Stowe, VT
On Friday, 5/30 I made my way to Stowe on highways 89, 104 and 108.  On highway 108, the terrain quickly became steep and dense and after passing Smugglers Notch Ski Area, I saw a sign that read “Buses and RVs not recommended”.  Unfortunately, it was too late and there was no place to pull over or turn around.  I had no choice but to keep going and hope for the best (as my adrenaline quickly escalated).  Out of all the driving I have done, Smugglers Notch may have been the most harrowing.  The road became very narrow with “S” turns that I didn’t know if I could maneuver and a feeling like we were being engulfed by the surrounding cliffs.  I had no idea that I would literally drive through the notch, but fortunately there was little traffic and I made it through (slowly and cautiously).  I pulled over after the S turns to catch my breath… then of course get out to take photos!  

Scary!
Smugglers Notch... NOT a place for a 27' RV

Shortly after getting through the notch, I found Smugglers Notch State Park and decided it was good timing to pull over for the night.  Even the campground was a bit unnerving with one steep loop and campsites difficult to maneuver into.  After setting up in the one spot I felt comfortable backing into, we set out to explore the trails.  
Tight spot
Coming down from the campsite (trust me, it's steep)

One of the trails led us to Stowe Ski Mountain so we spent several hours hiking to the top.  Stowe is the eastern flank of Mt. Mansfield which is Vermont's highest peak at 4400 feet.  And to Trooper’s elation, there was still snow!  He rolled around, did his happy dance and ran up and down the piles.  Hiking the ski slope was steep and tough, but the views were rewarding and we had the whole mountain to ourselves.  On our way back to the campsite, I spotted two large piles of scat; I assumed it was Moose and was excited (and a bit nervous) at the possibility of seeing this majestic animal.  As I was standing over the second pile, I heard this loud “whooo" sound and quickly ducked as something large swooped down at T and I.  Trooper’s reaction was classic; he didn’t know what it was or what to do.  I looked up in the tree behind us to find a Bard Owl (also known as Hoot Owl for its call) and all I could do was laugh.  

Let there be snow... at the end of May!
Nice sign 
Where are the high-speed quads?
Views of Smugglers Notch from the top of Stowe
Closeup
Found this one of the slopes... good in case you want to ski and pray
Trooper's downhill skills
And downhill... 
And downhill...
And done!
Yes, I see you
And now I really see you!

Ice Cream & Coffee
The next day, we packed up and headed to Waterbury, VT to visit two great businesses: Ben and Jerry’s Ice Cream and Green Mountain Coffee.  I opted out of the tour at Ben and Jerry’s and went straight to the shop for a small cup of my favorite flavor, Chunky Monkey.  I took a few pictures then headed to the RV to share with Trooper, who was thrilled to have a special treat.  Our next stop was Green Mountain Coffee for a mocha.  The mocha wasn’t the best, but I chatted with Marcia who told me the story of Smugglers Notch.  Smugglers Notch was named after early nineteenth century smugglers who used the caves and caverns to transport illegal goods across the Canadian border.  After seeing the notch, I can attest to it being a great hiding place!

Three delicious ingredients 
The timeline, but most interesting is that Ben & Jerry took a course in making ice cream at Penn State
Hello Chunky Monkey
Interesting face awaiting "OK"
So good!
How fresh can you get? 
Marcia explaining Green Mountain's history
Baby coffee plants
Not Starbucks, but it did the trick


Montpelier, VT
That afternoon, we pulled into Morse Maple Farm, a Harvest Host location just outside Montpelier, the capital of Vermont.  Once again, this program proved to be a brilliant concept.  The staff was friendly and welcoming, and the shop was filled with local goodies and their homemade maple syrup.  Shortly after pulling in, I met Cindy, a biologist who previously owned Siberian Huskys.  We chatted for a couple of hours about our love for the northern breeds and nature.  She pointed out a Snipe bird that was displaying odd behavior and said that seeing one is quite a treat.  I enjoyed our chat very much and owe her photos of that Snipe.  Both Cindy and the staff recommended a Maple Creamee, so later that evening, Trooper and I split another ice cream.  Two ice creams in one day... why not?

My maple home for the evening
A Snipe calling for a mate (poor little guy called well past sunset)
Very cool wood art
Even more impressive
Beautiful setting to boondock (see RV on left)
Where it all begins
So many maple colors
Had to try the maple creamee... ice cream meet maple
I think T approves too

On Sunday, 6/1 we stopped in Montpelier for breakfast before heading into New Hampshire.  Montpelier is the smallest capital in the country and the only one without a McDonald’s.  It’s a quaint New England town with a mix of old Victorian houses and new age shops.  I stopped at Capital Grounds for an egg sandwich and velvety mocha.  It was a great way to end a wonderful week in the mountains of upstate New York and norther Vermont.  New England has always had a special place in my heart and it was rejuvenating to be back.

Montpelier's Capital
Early morning lends itself to easy parking and dense fog
Downtown Montpelier
One last mocha in Vermont...


Final Thoughts
I officially passed 10,000 miles!  It's hard to believe that I have actually driven that many miles and passed through 18 US States and 1 Canadian Province.  This journey is simply magical.  I'm learning so much about different places and so much about myself.  I am thankful that PattyWaggin has been a great "house bus" keeping T and me safe, and I'm very grateful that Trooper and I have been blessed with health, laughter and a great adventure!

Thanks for reading!  Until next time...

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