Week 23: Green Mountains, VT to White Mountains, NH

I left the dense green forests of northern Vermont and continued my journey east to New Hampshire’s White Mountains with hopes of summiting the infamous Mt. Washington.

On Sunday, June 1st, I drove highway 302 east from northern Vermont into northern New Hampshire passing one quaint New England town after another.  One of the benefits of the northeast is that it doesn’t take long to get from one worthwhile destination to another.  Within a few hours, I had crossed into New Hampshire and into the White Mountain National Forest.  Sunday was glorious with clear blue skies and temps in the low 80’s.  From first impression, the Whites were as impressive as Vermont’s Green Mountains but more open and expansive.

Beautiful White Mountains

And a beautiful day to enjoy them!

Reminded me of Yosemite just smaller with trees

It wasn’t long before I spotted what I believed to be Mt. Washington and at the next scenic outlook when I saw “the hotel”, I knew I was correct.  Mt. Washington is the highest peak in the Northeast at 6288’ and has been called the most dangerous little mountain in the world.  It boasts the highest wind velocity ever recorded at a surface weather station at 231 MPH and has taken 137 lives (mostly due to hypothermia and not just in winter... they are called the Whites for a reason).  Summiting takes preparation, endurance, and mother nature’s blessing.

First sighting of Mt. Washington... and the ridiculous hotel

The roads were busy and there seemed to be cars and people at every parking lot, trailhead, and scenic turnout.  I suppose a gorgeous Sunday in June will bring the crowds out to enjoy nature’s best; and clearly, I have been spoiled throughout most of my travels by being “off-season”.  I found Dry River Campground on the west side of the mountain, which ended up being a great little campground with only a couple dozen spots and no services.  

Great campground in the depths of the National Forest

Hence the name "Dry River Campground"

Yummy Elk Sausage dinner

I met Shawn, the park ranger, who suggested I stay on the west side and hike Jewell Trail to the summit.  It would be 9 miles roundtrip with 4000’ elevation gain so I needed an early start.  Even though I didn’t know where the trailhead was and I didn’t have a trail map, I set my alarm for 5:00 AM and went to bed early with hopes of summiting the next day.  When my alarm went off Monday morning, I could feel a pinch in my lower back (an old injury from getting tangled up in my snowshoes and knocked over by a 100lb Malamute who was frolicking in the snow).  Two nights earlier, I locked my keys in the RV and had to climb in through an unlocked window.  I must have irritated it during the heroics of running, jumping and clinging to the sofa as I pulled myself into the RV.   I couldn't risk injuring it more, so I turned the alarm off and enjoyed a couple more hours of sleep.  I was upset since it was another spectacular day but accepted that it wasn’t meant to be.  I made the most out of the day by driving around the southern side of Mt. Washington enjoying the thinned out crowds and several great photo spots.  During my travels, I discovered the Cog Railway and Auto Road.  On the west side, you can pay $70 to take a 3-hour train ride up the mountain.  On the east side, you can pay $20 to drive yourself to the top.  There was definitely some enthusiasm lost when I discovered that after busting my a$# to climb 4000’ in 4.5 miles, I would see refreshed and happy people at the top enjoying the views, gift shop and cafeteria.  But still, my hopes were to summit.

Mt. Washington summit with the Cog Railway going straight up the mountain

The Auto Road entrance with Tuckerman's Ravine in the background (left)

Photo opp at Crawford Notch

T wanting to play in Flume Cascade

I stopped at the Pinkham Notch Visitors Center on the eastern side of Mt. Washington in the early afternoon and the temp was in the mid-80s.  Since Trooper would have to stay in the RV for 6 - 8 hours while I hiked, I realized it was a blessing that my back ached.  Pinkham Notch is the more popular side of the mountain with several trailheads, including Tuckerman’s Ravine.  I spoke with Peg who suggested I wait until later in the week to summit since there was a storm coming in that night.  We talked for a while about best routes up the mountain and the best place to park the RV with Trooper in it for the day.  When I left Pinkham, I felt confident about my plan and purchased a compass (finally) and trail map (note here to NEVER hike without one… I’m not sure what I was thinking).

Tuckerman's Ravine and yes, people were still skiing it

Trail map, compass, and knowing how to use them... priceless

Shelburne & Mt. Crag

Since I had a couple of days to wait out the impending storm, I drove to Timberland Campground in Shelburne, NH located northeast just outside the national forest.  I desperately needed to do laundry and get on WiFi, and Timberland was the best option.  That evening, I exchanged a few emails with Skye, my hiking buddy from Seattle, who ended her last email with “Watch the signs and make smart choices”.  When I woke up Tuesday morning at 8 a.m. to amazing blue skies, I was pissed!  It would have been a great day to climb Mt. Washington but I was too far from a trailhead and it was too late.  Laurie, the campground owner told me that the storm had slowed down and was expected to roll in later that day.  After telling her my two day story, she suggested I go for a bike ride on the local back roads and hike Mt. Crag to see Mt. Washington from afar.   It ended up being another hot day, so again probably not the best situation to leave a 100lb fluff ball in a vehicle.  An exhilarating 20 mile ride and 3 mile hike up Mt. Crag with spectacular views of the mountains and valley lifted me out of my “non-summiting funk”.

Not a bad day to explore the back roads on two wheels

Panoramic of the Androscoggin River near Shelburne

Intersection where I hid the bike and hiked up Mt. Crag

Panoramic view from the top of Mt. Crag

Not Mt. Washington's summit, but a summit with a great view (Mt. W far right)

Old Jackson Trail

As the sunny and hot days turned cloudy and cooler, I gave up my hope to summit Mt. Washington.  If RV’s were allowed on the Auto Road, I probably would have given in and paid the $20 to get to the top.  On Wednesday, 6/4 I went back to Pinkham’s Notch to hike something that Trooper and I could do together.  The girls at the Visitor Center suggested Old Jackson Road up to Low’s Bald Spot reaching 2875’.  It was a cooler day so we enjoyed being the only ones on the trail.  Compared to Mt. Washington’s 6288’, it was simple but had several steep sections with technical rock piles.  If this was a glimpse into Mt. Washington’s climb, I felt at peace with fate’s intervention to keep me off the mountain!  After a good workout, T and I ended our time in the beautiful White Mountains with a BLT!

Wow

T taking a water break on Old Jackson 

Rocky hiking in the Northeast

Wake Robin (or Stinking Benjamin) in full bloom

Thinking of my friends Helen & Craig who hiked the AT in a speedy 4 months!

Break before climbing more rocks 

"View" from the top of Low's Bald Spot

T investigating the trail worker's backpacks 

BLT well deserved (and of course T had some too)

We said goodbye to the beautiful mountains and drove to Conway, NH where we spent Wednesday evening and Thursday, 6/5 at Camping World getting PattyWaggin serviced for our upcoming journey into and across Canada.  Conquering Mt. Washington or not, the New Hampshire White Mountains are inviting, challenging and a stunning place to explore.

Final Thoughts
Signs… Pay Attention!  I had my heart and mind set on reaching the top of Mt. Washington.  It was a frustrating few days with one misdirection and another missed opportunity.  But the sequence of events are undeniable and it is now easy to see that hiking Mt. Washington was not meant to be.  I suppose solo hiking a mountain with such an unnerving reputation may not have been the wisest idea.  I don’t know if anything bad would have happened, but I know it didn’t and for that, I’m at peace.  It’s a reminder that plans and desires are good, but paying attention to the signs and being open to change is necessary.  If something is meant to be, it will be; otherwise, let it go and shift your energy elsewhere.

Thanks and until next time…