Week 35: Glacier to Yellowstone to Grand Tetons

My 35th week on the road took me to two well-known national parks with a surprising variety in landscape, animals, and crowds.

Montana Rain
After getting rained out of Montana and parting ways with Paige, I headed south with Bozeman as my planned destination.  It was Friday, 8/22 and after fueling up and stocking up on groceries in Helena, I picked up highway 287 south.  The further I drove, the worse the weather turned and when I hit the intersection of 287 and highway 90, the skies to the east were black and hail was starting to bounce off the hood.  I pulled into Three Forks Truck Plaza, parked PattyWaggin next to some truckers and made a few calls to wait out the storm.  The storm never let up so around 7 p.m., I accepted the truck plaza as my home for the night.

Just hanging out with the truckers somewhere in Montana

The next morning, it was pouring and the skies were as dark as night.  I drove a short 30 miles into Bozeman and spent a few hours in City Coffee on 19th avenue updating my blog.  As the afternoon passed, the rain seemed to get heavier so I found a Walmart and called it another night.  

When I woke up Sunday morning, 8/24 to pouring rain, I about lost my mind.  It was day six of rain, the stench from Trooper gave new meaning to “wet dog”, everything in the RV was damp, and I was done!  We pulled out of Walmart around 7 a.m. and I was determined to drive out of the weather regardless of whether it was Yellowstone or not.  I drove through downtown Bozeman which looks like a nice town that I hope to visit in nicer weather.  I picked up 191 south to go down the western side of Yellowstone; if the weather didn’t improve, I could head west in hope of nicer weather in Idaho.  I didn’t care where I ended up as long as it was out of the rain.  As I left the Bozeman area, I could see snow in the mountains and was a bit nervous of the weather ahead of me, but pushed on and am happy I did.  The drive parallels the Gallatin River through beautiful meadows and canyons, and through Big Sky which looks like another great little ski town that I hope to visit in the future.

August 24th and snow has fallen in Montana

Pit stop somewhere close to Big Sky

Yellowstone National Park
I drove through West Yellowstone to enter the park and realized quickly that it is one big tourist trap.  The friendly woman at the welcome kiosk suggested Madison campground for my first night since it is the closest to the west entrance.  Trooper and I found a good spot and walked around the campground (only the paved roads thanks to US National Park regulations).  I was delightful to see that the campground was modest and relatively quiet.  At dusk, I reluctantly put Trooper in the RV and headed down to the Madison River to look for wildlife.

Madison campsite

The Madison River next to the campground and quite a peaceful spot

Interesting tree trunk on the river bank

Wildflowers along the river

Not a bad Sunday evening

Sun setting along the Madison (can you find the Osprey?)

Classic shot of elk with running shoes

Several people warned me about the Yellowstone crowds so we pulled out of Madison at 7 a.m. Monday, 8/25.  My plan for the day was to drive around the lower loop (Yellowstone is laid out in a figure 8).  It was a cold and foggy morning; I felt silly in my wool hat and gloves, but the temp was in the low 30’s and I was freezing!  I drove south into the geyser area and was immediately awestruck by the steam rising from the earth’s crust.  I recalled a documentary I watched on Yellowstone’s super volcano and the catastrophe that would ensue if it erupted (which is fortunately highly unlikely).  I erased that thought and allowed myself to be completely fascinated as I visited one geyser after another.  Yellowstone is home to 10,000 thermal features, 500 of them being geysers which is the  world’s majority.  The reality of the “Yellowstone Crowds” quickly came to fruition when I was standing on a boardwalk at the Fountain Paint Pot geyser with just a few other spectators and heard a roar coming towards me.  Two tour buses pulled in and the flood of tourists were heading our way.  I snapped a few more photos and got out of there.  

Early morning fog close along Firehole River

First sight of geysers

Somewhere along Lower Geyser Basin

Perfect timing for a little thermal activity

The boardwalk to keep our feet cool

Steam and mud all around

Looks so tempting for my sore muscles!

My next stop was Old Faithful where I was one of the only people standing at the reliable geyser.  That is, until it started erupting.  I have no idea where all the people came from, but I was pushed aside, stepped in front of, and felt like I was part of a flash mob.  I grabbed my stuff and was content to get a cup of coffee from the Old Faithful Inn and walk Trooper around the parking lot for a little while.  

Just hanging out waiting

Closeup of Old Faithful

A little activity

A lot of activity

And good Old Faithful does not disappoint

I only made one stop along Yellowstone Lake since I was excited to get to Hayden Valley.

Yellowstone Lake looking south

Closeup of the Absaroka Range

As we continued around the lower loop, the crowds multiplied, especially in Hayden Valley.  There was one traffic jam after another due to bison either next to or on the road.  Trooper was beside himself trying to figure out the massive beasts so close to the RV.  Note: prepare yourself for a lot of bison pics...

This one was just taking a break next to the road

As I approached traffic, I saw this one coming 

And coming...

Then deciding to cross the road. Check out his size compared to the cars.

T wasn't sure what to think or do

And another traffic jam

A little family time

I think they like toying with the humans

Beautiful beasts

The northeast side of the lower loop is the Canyon area and a spectacular part of the park.  I stopped at Artist Point to get photos of an impressive canyon and two beautiful waterfalls.  The colors along the canyon walls ranged from yellow to pink showing why the area is called Artists Point.  It was packed with people so I got my photos and left.  I found myself getting sucked into the mayhem of jumping out of the vehicle to snap photos, jumping back in, driving as fast as possible to the next attraction and doing it all over again.  It’s not my ideal experience, but when in Rome!

Along the canyon south rim

Spectacular colors

Lower Falls

Closeup (check out the people for size perspective)

Upper Falls

We made it around the lower loop by noon and I was fortunate to get a campsite at Canyon Village for two nights; better yet, the campground had laundry facilities and showers.  That evening, my sister-in-law’s aunt and uncle reached out reminding me that they were working in Yellowstone for the summer.  We chatted and made plans to meet in the Grand Tetons Wednesday for their weekend getaway.  I also reconnected with an old friend, Todd Van Voast.  We spent hours catching up on the phone and he informed me that I had experienced the worst week of weather in Montana’s history (I may be over-exaggerating a bit here, but not by much).  Unfortunately, I missed him in Helena but hope to see him on my way north.

Due to my experience with the crowds, we left our campsite at 6 a.m. Tuesday morning to travel around the upper loop.  It was foggy and steep going over Dunraven Pass but the sunrise through the thick fog nestled in the valley made the early rise worthwhile.  It was a beautiful moment (even if Trooper was still trying to figure out why I woke him so early).  There is a clear, clean, crisp newness to the morning that is pretty special if you can get up that early.

Early morning departure

But so worthwhile

Even if he doesn't agree

Looking east over the Mirror Plateau

Didn't take long for him to start waking up

I drove north into Tower Junction which quickly became one of my favorite areas.  The landscape is rugged with a small canyon and river.  Based on a recommendation, I stopped at Roosevelt Inn and they were kind enough to make a to-go breakfast sandwich out of their french toast, bacon and egg combo.  Trooper and I enjoyed the yummy meal as we drove into Lamar Valley.   The drive through the valley was calm and peaceful as the fog slowly lifted revealing the soft rolling hills lined with Aspens.  I heard about a pack of wolves with five cubs hanging around Soda Butte.   I spent about one hour sitting next to the Butte (freezing) before making the drive back west around 8:30.  I found out later that the wolves made an appearance around 9:30.  I also found out that “Rick the Wolf Guy” has trackers on some of the wolves, so I may head back to Yellowstone and find Rick.

The drive into Lamar Valley

Beautiful change of scenery

Soda Butte - a large dormant hot spring cone

Looking across Soda Butte Creek

Watching the fog lift hoping for a wolf sighting

Nothing but a Pronghorn Antelope to be seen

At this point, I had two layers of clothing on with my ski hat and gloves.  As I drove west toward Mammoth Hot Springs, the fog dissipated and the sun and heat made me look like a displaced ski bum.  The terraces appeared out of nowhere as I came out of a dense mountain area.  I don’t know if it was location or timing, but I was definitely back in the tourist area after a very peaceful morning.  The terraces are another impressive area of the park being formed by hot water rising through limestone which dissolves large quantities of rock and leaves a white chalky mineral on the surface.

Mammoth Terraces

Up close

Perspective shot with the people on the boardwalk

The colors are due to algae and bacteria

Looking down on the Visitor Center area

I pulled into the Swan Lake overlook in the early afternoon and decided since it was my last day in the park, I would hang out there until dusk.  The sun was hot but a nice breeze kept Trooper and me comfortable.  I was hoping to see wildlife but it was not to be that day, other than some butterflies and trumpet swans.  We returned to camp twelve hours after our early morning departure and I was exhausted!  I didn’t know what to expect of Yellowstone but it is much more crowded than I imagined.  Take the crowds away, and you find yourself in a massive park with an impressive offering of landscapes and wildlife.  From geysers to rolling valleys to sharp canyons with grizzlies, wolves and bison all calling this place their home, Yellowstone definitely has it all… just go off-season when you can enjoy the beauty and not fight the crowds.  

Swan Lake on the west side of the upper loop

Beautiful day for playing around with the Nikon

T waiting for wildlife

But only butterflies to see

And a bee

But a beautiful view of Electric Peak

Grand Teton National Park
I slept in Wednesday morning, 8/27 until 9 a.m. and it felt great!  After breakfast and a shower, we headed south.  It was a short drive out of Yellowstone and into the Grand Teton National Park where the Tetons jut out of nowhere.  They were a magnificent sight and made me miss the Canadian Rockies.   

First view of the Grand Tetons

They are breathtaking from any angle!

I pulled into the Gros Ventre (pronounced “grow-vant”) campground where Mike and Cindy were staying and walked around for a bit.  On my walk to Cindy and Mike's spot, I met Don and Linda from Key West who have been “retired” since their 30’s and traveling in their RV.  It was inspiring to meet them and think that perhaps I can make this RV travel thing full-time (Dad and Nick will be thrilled to hear that!). 

A great campsite for a few days

The Gros Ventre River behind the campground

T playing around

Mike and Cindy pulled up and it was great seeing their familiar faces!  Cindy and my mom were close friends and reminiscing about Mom made my heart ache but brought joy to my soul knowing how she touched people’s lives.  They made dinner and I enjoyed an evening of good food, great people and a warm campfire.

Deliciously made with fresh-picked mushrooms (I hope Cindy & Mike know their mushrooms)

Sunset from my campsite

With a peak at the Tetons

And a crescent moon as a little bonus

I didn’t realize that Labor Day weekend was coming up so I decided to stay in the Jackson area until Monday.  Thursday morning, 8/28 was quite an eventful one!  I opened the RV door at 6:30 a.m. to let Trooper out and saw two moose in the adjoining field.  I put T back in the RV and grabbed my camera since it looked like they were headed my way.  As they continued getting closer, I made my way closer to the RV.  It was obvious that the two were attempting to mate as he would approach her, she would gallop away, then she would turn and trot back towards him (apparently even the animal kingdom play hard to get!).  The bull moose came around a tree and saw me standing there.  He started throwing his head side-to-side showing his aversion to my presence.  I was able to get a few photos before he walked to my table, knocked over my lens and continued approaching.  I went into the RV and closed the screen door.  He continued throwing his head around and began making snorting sounds.  He walked within five feet of the screen door (which I quickly realized that I should have closed the real door) and was looking in at Trooper and me.  I had Trooper in a bear hug trying to keep him from making any sound or movement.  My heart was pounding and I was sure that he was going to charge the RV.  Just then, a truck drove by and abruptly stopped to get a photo.  It scared the moose away from the RV and gave others an opportunity to photo a beautiful (and huge) creature.

A little love time

I think he sees me

He definitely sees me

And he's clearly not happy

Last shot through the kitchen window

Friday, 8/29 Mike and Cindy were kind enough to offer a day of sightseeing and even kinder to let Trooper in their car.  Unfortunately, I forgot my camera so all photos are from my phone.  It was a beautiful day and the mountains were radiant against a clear blue sky.  We drove to Jenny Lake and Jackson Lake with a stop in the Jackson Lake lodge for photos and coffee.  The lodge is gorgeous and looks costly but the location and view probably make it worthwhile.  On the way back to camp, we stopped at Moose Village and enjoyed a delicious lunch and glass of wine at Dornan’s.  Afterward, we all enjoyed some ice cream (including T) and Cindy and I both bought a few things at the local outdoor store.  Over dinner that night, they shared several Yellowstone stories; apparently there is a book called “Death in Yellowstone” that writes about bizarre deaths of both people and pets.  The next morning, they were heading back to Yellowstone for another week of work before jetting off to Spain to walk the El Camino de Santiago.  Mike and Cindy, THANK YOU for a very fun couple of days.  It was wonderful to see you and I wish you a month of amazement in Spain!  Much love to you both.

Awesome tour guides!

Panorama from Jackson Lake Lodge

View across Jenny Lake

Saturday, 8/30 I spent the morning walking around Jackson with Trooper and chatting with some locals at the plaza market.  I had been to Jackson Hole almost ten years ago with Vanessa, Mark and Emma (6 months old!) but it seemed much more ritzy than I remembered.  There is a lot of money in the town making for some great shops and eateries but since I’m unemployed, we stuck to reasonable lunch spots like e.leaven.  I grabbed a BLT and homemade chips, and drove to Teton Village.  Trooper and I enjoyed lunch at the base of Jackson Hole (to clear up any confusion, Jackson is the town and Jackson Hole is the ski area with Teton Village at the base).  

I spotted these going into town

The famous elk antler arches in the town plaza

Beautiful flowers everywhere in town

And more

Lunch and a mocha from e.leaven

Great lunch spot at the base of Jackson Hole

Post lunch pic

One of the steepest mountains I've ever skied

As I was driving back into camp, I saw a mama and calf in the field.  A fellow onlooker told me to head to loop B.  When I walked there with my neighbor Stewart, we found a massive bull moose behind someone’s camper.  He was huge and I was afraid after my earlier encounter so I snapped a few photos and walked away.  I’m thrilled that the Gros Ventre campground is a favorite spot for the local moose giving me an up close look at such beautiful animals.

Moose everywhere!

This guy was massive and just chillin'

But a few pics and I was out of there

Sunday, 8/31 was my last full day in the Grand Tetons and since it was raining, I went to Starbucks for a few hours to work on my blog.  I met John Baston who is from Portland, OR and was on day two of a fast and furious two month journey around the US.  We looked at each other’s photos, shared our enthusiasm about our journeys and exchanged our blog pages.  As a project manager, he is much more organized about his whirlwind tour and I really like his blog so check it out at http://johnlbaston.tumblr.com.  Oh, and at 6’1”, he is sleeping in his Subaru Crosstrek.  John, you’re insane and I wish you an amazing, life-changing two months!  

After leaving SBUX, I grabbed T out of the RV and walked around town.  Based on a local’s recommendation, we stopped at Persephone for lunch.  Their mocha was spot-on but their BKR (bacon, kale, ricotta) was probably the best “BLT” I ever devoured.  I highly recommend this spot if you’re in the area.

Jen & Kim, this one's for you!

And just in case you need a mouth-watering closeup ;)

Quick pic of the Snake River as I drove by

Dirty dog!

The Tetons on a stormy afternoon

As I was in line at the Rec Center to shower, I saw a post from Mandy (Swehla) Sessions regarding “Jenny’s Tetons”.  I messaged her and found out that she and Jared were on their honeymoon in Jackson!  After hearing that it was $7 to shower, I left the Rec Center and headed to Teton Village to see the newlyweds.  They came out to the RV to meet Trooper and invited me in for a hot shower and beer, neither of which I could refuse.  It was uplifting to see them so happy and in love.  Mandy and Jared, thank you for taking time out of your honeymoon to see me.  It was awesome and I wish you a lifetime of love, laughter, and that ridiculous unicorn mask! 

Fantastic surprise!

I left camp early Monday morning, the first day of September, to get sunrise photos of the Tetons.  It was a gorgeous morning with layers of fog in front of the mountains.  As I was outside with T getting pics, John pulled in.  It was great to see him again and as he was getting photos of Trooper, I captured one of my favorite pics of him.  I headed south on route 191 with no destination in mind but a very happy heart after an amazing week!

Final Thoughts
The good ole USA and Canada.  I have traveled 18,000 miles in 8 months and am in awe of the breathtaking and diverse nature surrounding us.  Whether it’s deserts, oceans, mountains, glaciers, grizzlies, wolves, elk, any kind of bird imaginable or chipmunks (there must be millions of these little guys running around), North America has it.  And I’m only scratching the surface.  I have traveled abroad many times but have discovered a newfound appreciation and pure amazement in the place I call home; and including our awesome neighbor to the north adds limitless possibilities.  The next time you’re thinking of escaping, look in your own backyard and you just may have an experience of a lifetime.

Thanks for reading and until next time…