Week 34: Banff to Glacier National Park (US)

After two incredible months, thousands of miles, eight provinces and some of the most breathtaking scenery, it was time to cross back into the states and meet up with my dear friend Paige in Glacier National Park.

Waterton National Park
After dropping Alexa off at the Calgary airport on Wednesday, 8/13 I drove south on highway 2 then picked up highway 3 west out of Fort MacLeod.  Since it was getting late (according to my rule of not driving in the dark), I was pleasantly surprised to find a Walmart in Pincher’s Creek soon after turning south onto highway 6 which would take me into Waterton National Park.  There was a beautiful sunset over the Continental Divide but the pungent aroma of cow manure in the air the entire evening and into the morning made me curious about Pincher’s Creek.

Home for the night

With a beautiful sunset over the Continental Divide

Thursday morning, 8/14 I continued south on highway 6 and it reminded me of the gentle rolling hills of South Dakota.  As the miles passed, I could see mountains rising sharply from the foothills. It was rainy and foggy adding to the mystery of the mountains in the distance.  The young man at the welcome kiosk suggested Crandall campground since it is first come, first serve.  The road into the campground was surprisingly narrow and two vehicles couldn’t pass without one of them pulling onto the shoulder.  The campsite was just as narrow but I managed to squeeze in with just enough space between a tree and the picnic table.  Crandall campground (at least K Loop) is thick and unmanicured, which I welcomed for my last night in Canada.

Heading into Waterton National Park

Saw this en route to the campsite... check out Trooper

Tight squeeze into the campsite

View from Loop K

Trooper and I hiked up to Crandall lake that afternoon despite the light rain.  It was very quiet; the clouds and rain created a feeling of heaviness and sadness that I couldn’t deny.  I missed the Banff area and wasn’t looking forward to crossing back into the states.  Throughout my journey, I felt the same sadness saying goodbye to my loved ones, but this was the first time a location kept a piece of my heart.  After a few hours of hiking, I reconciled it with the knowledge that I can always return.

A bit rainy but still a good day for a hike

And a swim in Lake Crandall

Friday morning, 8/15 we left the campground around 9 a.m. and drove into Waterton Village.  I was happy to find that the town wasn’t bustling with crowds so I decided it was a good place to do laundry.  After putting the laundry in, I walked Trooper to the lake and chatted with some locals for a bit.  On my way back to the laundromat, I ran into Kurt from Lake Louise.  It was a wonderful surprise to see him again.  We spent a couple of hours chatting and walking around town before saying our goodbyes once again.  As it turns out, the past few years of our lives have been eerily similar and running into him again was a great ending to my time in Canada.  Kurt, in two brief moments in time, you have become dear to me; you are in my thoughts and prayers.

View from Waterton

T cooling off in Upper Waterton Lake

Back into the USA
I reluctantly left Waterton and continued south on highway 17 to the US Border Crossing.  If I didn’t have plans to meet Paige, I think I would have turned around and headed back to Banff.  Two months to the day after crossing into New Brunswick, I crossed back into the states at Chief Mountain, Montana.  Within a few miles of crossing, I had to go on the brakes to avoid a large black animal in the road… a cow.  There were cows on both sides of the roads for miles and I laughed at my welcome back to the states.  

One last photo the Canadian Rockies before crossing into the US

No turning back (but did have to back up because I was in the wrong line and wouldn't have cleared the building!)

The Montana welcome committee

Chief Mountain on the right

Surprisingly flat looking toward eastern Montana 

First sighting of Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park, Montana
Since my RV isn’t allowed on ‘Going-To-The-Sun’ road through Glacier, Paige and I planned to meet on the west side of the park.  I had a couple of days before her arrival, so I stopped at St. Mary campground on the east side.  I was reminded that US National Parks do not allow dogs on any trails, only paved roads.  Between thunderstorms, I took T on an evening stroll around the paved campground loops and met Tom and Sue who were headed north into Canada.  I gave them my maps and recommendations on my favorite places and they were kind enough to give me their daughters contact information in Salt Lake City for my upcoming visit to Utah. 

The drive into Glacier National Park St. Mary campground

Saturday morning, 8/16 I left St. Mary early to drive around the park.  The scenery was an entertaining mix of flowing brown prairie and rugged snow-capped mountains with an occasional cow or bison on the side of the road.   Apgar Campground is one of the largest and busiest campgrounds in the park with its own village, but I was relieved to get a spot for myself and one for Paige.

Such a great co-pilot (if only he could drive)

View leaving St. Mary campground and driving around the park

I heard Paige and Basil pull in sometime in the early morning hours (as in 1 a.m.) Monday, 8/18.  I went outside to give her a hug and offer my help but she shooed me away to go back to bed.  I promised her that I would let her sleep in since their journey was close to 12 hours.  Trooper and I were up early and sat at our picnic table staring at her tent for some sign of movement like kids on Christmas morning.  It was just after noon when they peered out of their tent and I quickly heated water for some coffee and tea.  It was a relaxing afternoon sitting around chatting and taking the pups into the village.  That evening, we made Paige’s camping speciality, “cowboy dinner”.  It was wonderful to see her and spend time around the campfire catching up, giggling, and making s’mores.

Apgar campsites

The fresh ingredients prepped and ready to go

The Paige Kanaby way of cooking

And the ridiculously delicious results.  Everything tastes better when camping!

And a pissed off pup who was not invited to dinner

Tuesday morning, 8/19 we left T in the RV and headed onto “Going-To-The-Sun” road.  It was cloudy and hazy making good photos tough, especially when I was taking them out the window as Paige concentrated on keeping the Jeep in her lane.  The drive is comically insane with cars, bicyclists, people snapping photos and tour vans everywhere with rock outcroppings forcing you to pull in your mirrors and not a whole lot keeping you from plunging over the side.  The spectacular views increased with each switchback, as did the crowds.  I imagine that hiking backcountry would be incredible and hopefully I will have the opportunity someday.  For us, we had enough of the crowds and noisy campground, and decided to leave Glacier that afternoon.

One spectacular view after another

Closeup

Pit Stop

Getting closer to Logan Pass

Trying for good shots while in motion is not easy

Paige and Basil concentrating and me goofing around (yes, we had to pull the mirror in to avoid hitting it against another car or rock outcropping)

Beauty all around.  Going-to-the-Sun road is a must do in Glacier!

Mid-August snow

Tuesday traffic jam after turning around at Logan Pass

A little potty break by the McDonald Creek en route back to camp

Beautiful array of rock colors in the creek

Flathead National Forest, Montana
We headed west into Whitefish so I could see the town I’ve heard so many great things about.  We only stayed long enough to walk the dogs, get coffee, and get a few recommendations of quiet places to camp.  Whitefish looked a lot newer and uppity than I was expecting, but still a great little town in a beautiful part of Montana.  We continued our travels south through Kalispell (which is the rustic western town I expected Whitefish to be), stopped for groceries in Bigfork (great views of Flathead Lake), and arrived at Swan Lake on highway 83 in the Flathead National Forest.  The weather was cool and misty so our outdoor time was cut a bit short.

Swan Lake on a dreary day

Nothing like flowers to brighten a day

And add a bit of sunshine

Wednesday morning, 8/20 we awoke to another rainy day but managed to get a walk in to Swan Lake.  Trooper and I continued further as Paige and Basil returned to break down camp.  Have I mentioned how easy and how much I love just simply pulling into a camp site and being all setup?  Watching Paige setup and breakdown camp reminded me of the effort required in tent camping (and made me appreciated my decision to purchase an RV for this adventure).  

Basil waiting for breakfast

Paige once again delivers a delicious meal!

Not nice! What's with our dogs?

I love this sequence of photos as I'm setting up

What's everyone looking at?

Finally... a group shot!

We continued south looking for a better camp spot and hoping for better weather.  We stopped at the Ranger Station and got several recommendations.  As we drove back north stopping in a few places, we discovered awesome sites on Alva Lake.  It’s a dirt road off 83 that has 6 camp sites right on the lake.  We were thrilled!  I pulled in and considered myself all setup while Paige setup camp for the next hour ;).  I helped by pouring the wine.

Not a bad setup

Not bad AT ALL!

The next few days continued to be rainy and cool.  We made the most out of it, but the weather was even getting to me and I wasn’t the one in the tent.  Friday morning, 8/22 we decided it was time to say goodbye so Paige could head back to Seattle (where it was sunny and 80) and I could begin my trek towards Yellowstone.  My time in Montana wasn’t as long or weather-friendly as I hoped so I plan to go back when the leaves are turning and the weather is more outdoor-friendly.  

The weather just wouldn't clear up

Until next time sweet Basil!

Despite the less than desirable weather, it was terrific spending time with Paige and Basil.  And despite the decade in years between us, she continues to be one of the most mature, accepting and loving human beings I know.  Paige, it truly is an honor to be your friend and thank you for always being a huge support.. through some of the toughest times and a lot of the best times.

Love you Paige!

Final Thoughts
Random.  Sometimes people refer to unique sequence of events as random.  There have been so many times on my journey where I end up in a certain place, meet particular people, and experience remarkable events that haven taught me that there is no such thing as random.  Instead, I see it as a perfectly orchestrated series of events to get you exactly where you need to be to experience exactly what you need to.

Thanks for reading and until next time!